A bit of a bumpy night overnight with some open sea stretches but the morning was calm as we approached Tromso, the Artic Capital. At a latitude of 69 degrees north, we're still not expecting any direct sunlight today!

On docking at the wharf a rainy, wintery mix and some wind of the forecast, we looked to the lightening sky and decided to take on the walk from the Trollfjord across the large bridge to the mainland, looking to make it to the cable car for a brief trip to the top of Fjellsund. High winds, icy paths (those shoe covers are incredible) and quite a lot of people were the name of the game! When the ground is as slippery as it was, it could be quite difficult not to either a) offer someone assistance, with the very real likelihood that they might pull you over or b) giggle too loud as someone who is unprepared for the ice goes sliding back past you down a slope (whilst making sure to stay just out of arms reach in case they decide to grab on on their way past). Anyway, despite the irritation of large numbers of (not racist but there were a lot of Asian tourists in Tromso) fellow travellers and a ridiculous case of vertigo walking the up-slope of the bridge (if you know me you know what I'm referring to), we made it onto the mainland.

There was soooo much snow on the ground, but with the slightly warmer weather, the ice on the roads and paths was a feature. We walked our way to the base of the cable car, only to find that it was closed for the day due to the high winds. I was able to walk a good way up the snow covered slope to get a good view for a photo.

The return to the ship options were limited with lots of people waiting for buses so we decided to opt for on foot again. This was a much better return walk with the wind behind us somewhat. We explored some shops (Still no bag for Bronnie) and returned to the boat for a quick lunch.

After lunch we decided to venture out again to visit the Polaria (local aquarium). What a cool place it was. The fish up here are so different to ones at home. Wolffish, halibut, glass tunicates were just a few of the highlights (see photos). Then we were treated to a feeding exhibition of the three resident harbour seals. They are sooo different to the fur seals of the south. Much fatter (300kg, closer to a sea lion in size), smaller heads, they swim with side to side of their lower half with limited front flipper use in swimming and their front flippers are much shorter and thicker. The nails on their front flippers are much sharper/longer and we assumed this was for use in pulling themselves up onto icebergs in slippery conditions.

A rainy walk back to the ship for dinner. The meal tonight was not buffet but full table service and oh, what a meal. Entree of salmon roll (smoked salmon around a dill based cream, topped with delicious caviar). Main, Bronnie had a sublime risotto and Tim had roast beef with vegetables. This does not sound impressive but when I was crapping on about how it could not have been better to our waiter William, he promptly went and got me a second serving. On polishing it off, he said I should come and meet the chef on my way out. The chef explained the cooking of the beef. It was a cut taken from the front of shoulder that was marinated for 2 days in salt, pepper, dill and garlic. He then sous vided it for 8 hours at 59C. The result of tender, soft, red, delicious meat was unbelievably good. Oh, and dessert was an almond "Prince" cake...also good.

Our evening concluded in the 1893 bar with a tasty liqueur (well, a port for me) and some sudoku. Fingers crossed for a smooth sail to tomorrow's destination. Rain forecast again and our planned excursion of snow shoeing has been modified to ice hiking with crampons...will be amazing still though. I think tomorrow is our last full day in the Arctic...the days are flying by but loving every second of it. Keep pinching myself to be honest.