We arrived at our rescheduled stop of Hammerfest (to avoid the dangers of the big weather system in the area) but were certainly not disappointed. After yet another sensational meal to start the day, we layered up (Tim added one extra layer under his jacket today but opted to not wear thermal pants...they make it tricky to keep his extra trousers from falling down) and ventured out into the freezing dim light.
On stepping off the gangway, we were greeted with very blustery conditions, crunchy ice and a few gusts of what is locally known as a "wintery mix". To us this looks like contained in the one precipitatory squall there is a mixture of rain, sleet, hail and snow. The tiny hail is a bit stingy!
Undeterred and inspired by our northerly aspect, we pressed on into the heart of Hammerfest, the northernmost "city" in the world. It has been the place where much of the Artic fishing, whaling, walrus, narwhal, King Crab fleet have been able to be based since the 1800s. It comes to mind often "why the hell are people here" other than for the spectacular natural beauty...which to my mind is incredible to see and visit but would be different if this were a place to call home. It turns out, that at the end of the last ice-age and with the temperatures warming, that people simply followed the animals north as they retreated from further south. The Hammerfest harbour is the northernmost harbour that remains free of sea ice year round.
We visited the museum for the Polar Bear society (see photos of the Polar Bear archway) with an exhibit (see mint photos) about the stories of Norwegian sailors and their exploits. Inspiring stuff. Bronnie was keen to explore the retail offerings, ostensibly to work out further clothing and personal items that she can obtain, since her suitcase is yet to find her here in Norway! There is a distinct lack of "we will find it and are working hard on it for you" from either the ship crew or the airline...a little frustrating, although the required shopping is not necessarily the worst outcome :)
Alternatively, Tim was keener to explore the crunchy snow laden streets for a bit and to clock up a few more thousand steps in the Arctic on his strava feed. So, up the mountain behind the town I went, twice! Somewhat challenged by vertigo, crazy winds, low light and the imposing presence of avalanche barriers, I did make it most of the way to the top of the hill for some spectacular views and photos.
On descent, we rendezvoused next to the church where a fresh batch of "wintery mix" and 80kmh winds with wind chill of minus 15C awaited. It was only a brief battering and then we were able to take some magic photos in an old cemetry followed by a short walk up the hill again (with Bronnie this time). The weather got the better of us and as the daylight slipped away we made our way back to the ship.
An afternoon onbaord, watching the snow, rain, hail and sleet come in sideways gave a welcome rest (the cold wind is tiring) and a chance to get over my sniffles a bit! Some sudoku, research on next locations and some further genealogy for Bronnie was the order of the day...along with a few samplers of the local potato spirit called Aquavit. Bronnie has a new liqueur that she likes! Dinner with our friends from South Africa, who remarkably owned a pub that we visited in Tasmania three years ago (and who remembered us too) was fun...they are full of stories!
A night forecast of some open sea swell awaits and we dock in Tromso at 8am tomorrow. Hoping to find the cable car and some breaks in the rainy weather soon.