After a fun farewell from our comfy hotel by a number of friendly big doggos we headed for the nearby Decani monastery. As with lots of things in the region, it was a bit weird as we arrived to find that the monastery was under major guard by Serbian soliders, even though it is inside modern Kosovo. Such is the tension between groups and the significance of this site, still a living working monastery with Orthodox monks living on site (we met some), this is required. UNESCO site of cultural significance...multiple attempts to damage/destroy etc. We had to show passports and photos at the entrance were forbidden.

As we walked inside the grey skies and the outside of the church didn't prepare us for what was inside. As we entered, the walls were literally covered with frescos...just incredible. The pictures are so ornate but yet old looking (they were painted in the 1300s) it was quite an experience to see. Slightly unsettling were some of the pictures had had the eyes scratched over, apparently during the Ottoman occupation, the muslim religion does not allow for the depiction of the faces of prophets, and as they see Jesus as a prophet, they ave taken action. In the main part of the church, the sarcophagus of Stefan Ulius III (Decani) is interred. At some times, the coffin is open and it is said to be miraculous as his body has not decayed despite regular exposure to the air.

On the day we were there, his coffin was open and we were invited to look at him. It is a custom for Orthodox believers to be blessed at the coffin by one of the monks and then to crawl underneath the space below in order to bring fertility to their family. We didn't do that but did have a look at him. We could see his ornate robes and his hand with a ring still on it (black and dried out but confronting). Bronnie had also covered her head with a scarf as a respectful gesture in the church. A really high charged feeling and I felt suddenly quite weird inside. Not sure why but is was quite unsettling.

Managing to not collapse (just) we made our way to a side chapel with paintings of St Nicholas. Unfortunately, one of our group members knocked over a candle with a glass orb on top and it smashed loudly (very embarrassing). Bronnie and I headed outside pretty quickly to find that it had actually started snowing. Very moving. One of the monks came up and spoke to me for a while...the essence of which being that in respect of all religions that we are all children of God and that is the most important thing...he said this while holding my arm in a very reassuring fashion. Quite a thing to experience.

We then got to have some coffee and also some Rakiya that the monks make there on site. Quite yummy, especially the second one ;)

Back on the bus and off to Prizren for a city tour. Prizren, capital of Kosovo, is known as the city of religious buildings with over 170 mosques, loads of churches and even a synagogue under current construction, despite it only serving 3 local families. They have a nice Christian church under which they have found 4 gold robed bodies during a recent renovation to put under floor heating in! On the tour we were able to see the outside of public baths under restoration and also to go inside a mosque (without shoes and Bronnie had to stay behind a screen until the prayers were finished). Quite interesting to see how each of the religions go about it.

As the tour ended, we got to climb up a former minaret, now clock tower to get great views over the city as well as seeing a museum of paleolithic and neolithic artifacts from the region. I was happy to see the pattern on my new copper wrist band has similarities with neolithic artwork.

At the end of the tour, Bronnie and I had turkish coffee chatting with Biliana, who then set about reading the dregs of my inverted coffee mug...like reading tea leaves a bit. Called tassoeach. All of bit much at the end of a spiritually confronting sort of day that I hadn't really expected. Quiet night in and tomorrow we head for Albania.