A nice slow morning and given we have the week here, no rush to sprint around!

But of course, I couldn't help myself so grabbed a brochure listing the main sites of interest in the west part of the main island of Orkney (actually there are 70 islands here, of which 20 are inhabited). For much of the drive and explore, I was travelling along St Magnus way. A pilgrim journey established in 2017 that allows people to walk the journey that Magnus' remains travelled along after he was killed.

I visited a range of neolithic burial tombs, a circular medieval chapel and also had a peek at Steness standing stones, nearby barnhouse neolithic ruins, the Ring of Brodgar too...but I decided not to head to Skara Brae...the best known neolithic excavation on Orkney. The density and number of sites, along with many more that I suspect remain unknown is really quite interesting. I learned that indeed the standing stones on Orkney predate any of those found south in England, including Stone Henge and it is thought now that some of the culture that is so celebrated in England and Scotland actually had its origins here in Orkney and went south!!! Woooo.

I also couldn't resist and went to Birsay where you can access a Viking settlement remains (the stone foundations mainly), and St Edmund's chapel and palace. The excitement for me was that the Broch at Birsay can only be visited at low tide...guess what? Low tide it was!!! So across I went. Mintage. A really clear set out of dwellings, chapel, plumbing and even a viking sauna. I loved this one.

Along the road to Swannay brewery, which was open. A couple of tasters purchased. Then onto the largest Broch at Brough. which said it was closed. However, the gate was unlocked so in I went. Super cool also! Of course as was the case for most of the day, I was the only person there...just how I liked it!

Last stop on my jaunt was another neolithic burial chamber high on a hill near Finstown. This one was spookage. After a bit of a muddy slog uphill and over a stile, the entrance to this one was dark. Having read the sign that said it was worth the effort to crawl into the 5m entrance to the multi chambered mound. So, phone in placed in front of me stretched out to give some light and a grind along hands, knees and feet, holding down an unpleasant sick feeling of claustrophobia, I pushed forwards bit by bit. The sinking realisation that turning around in the tunnel wasn't really an option once I was a couple of metres into the tunnel was somewhat panic inducing, as was the wind blowing outside. Great idea Robards. Anyway, after what I'm sure felt longer than reality and with more than 1 "oh no" when I knocked my phone over meaning the dark descended, I made it to the central chamber. Unlike others we've been to, this one still had its roof in tact, so it was dark inside. The others have had concrete roofs with small sky lights. I turned off my torch so I could take quick photos of each of the chambers coming off the main one. Being in the dark as I knelt back down again to shimmy out the tunnel was quite hairs on end...This one is the oldest on Orkney and had the remains of many people as well as many birds and indeed dogs that dated from later than the human bones, suggesting varied uses over time.

Back down to Kirkwall to find Bronnie and a visit to the Orkney Brewery and the museum to learn more about the Picts/Vikings from this place. Bronnie had thoroughly enjoyed a chance to have a rest from "tourist fatigue", catch up on some washing, have a nice walk into town, buy some brilliant new jumpers and a new craft project: a hand-knitted beanie with Orkney fine woll yarn to come!!! A bold undertaking for a virgin knitter...wish her luck :)

Driving around, the farm size here is clearly larger and it feels like there is a bit more money/income generation here. More on this later!

A Daphne du Maurier movie night in "My Cousin Rachel". Apt for the location. Can reveal, the Brig Larder (local produce emporium) delivered a delicious Orkney steak pie and the Swannay mild and porter were tasty...even Bronnie agreed with the pairing of beer and pie! Yum.