A rough night with big seas! I have discovered that I don't get seasick with puking, but I do get the stress sweats...oh well...such is life.

Today we had a short time to explore the Bronnoysund area on a pre-booked bus and walk to Torghatten, the site of a famous story/legend told to all Norwegian children. The whole area around Bronnoysund is a UNESCO geopark. The geology is mostly granite although there has been mining in the area in the past. On our way to the famous Torghatten (the mountain with a hole in it), we were able to just make out the seven peaks that the region is known for.

On arrival at Torghatten we were given shoe covers (although they ran out before Bronnie got some, her regular ones did the trick) and we headed off towards troll mountain. We were able to see the water and again were amazed at the clarity of the water and lack of marine smell. The strong winds made the outwards walk a bit of a challenge too!

It was explained to us that Bronnoysund is a three part name. Bron means fresh water, noy means a well and sund means never straight. The region has thousands of tiny islands that have been home to farms for hundreds of years.

The true explanation of the hole in the mountain comes from a really surprising geological explanation. During the last ice age, the area was covered with an ice sheet over 2000m thick (unbelievable). Due to the enormity of this mass, the granitic tectonic plate was actually pushed down into the aesthenosphere. As the globe warmed and the ice melted, it again made its way above water level. During this time, wave and wind action generated the hole in the mountain. As the ice continued to recede, it was lifted well above sea level to the height it is today.

In other nearby caves, there is evidence of human occupation from over 10000 years ago with cave art depicting the retreat of the ice sheet to the north as the humans and animals migrated north. Very cool.

The fairy tale part of the adventure was that during the dark months when trolls are active (there are 3 kinds, small red ones that are helpful, green clothed ones that can trick you and swap your children/give you an extra one and large scary ones with big noses as depicted in shops). At this time, a very large troll from the north was looking for a woman. The local pretty girls (of whom there are 7) were being taught by another very beautiful woman about how to be a good Norwegian wife, how to cook food, be pretty and sew clothes. The troll saw the women bathing and fell in love with the teacher. Instead of getting dressed up all nice to talk to her, he got it wrong, jumped on his horse and came charging towards them. Frightened, they turned and ran to the south. The melee that ensued revved up the giants who were also asleep and something of a stampede ensued, created lots of mess (small islands everywhere).

As they neared the extent of the troll's kingdom, he knew he was not fast enough to catch the beautiful woman, so instead he decided to shoot her down with an arrow. Just to the south, a nearby troll giant saw this unfolding and as the arrow was hurtling towards the beautiful teacher, he threw his hat into the air to deflect the arrow. The arrow went through the hat, creating the hole, but at that instant, the springtime sun peeked over the mountains. As all of this had been touched by magic, the hat fell into the sea, leaving the mountain with a hole and the teacher and the seven sisters became the mountains around the archipelago. A sad tale. Apparently, as a young person, once you are able to retell this tale, the trolls will grant you safe passage through the area.

We then came back to Bronnoysund (which is actually exactly halfway along the Norway coastline) and attended a really nice concert in the local church being given by local people who have a disability. "You raise me up" was super moving :(

Then, back on board and into some big seas again. An early night and a quick dinner beforehand did the trick and we'll see again what tomorrow brings.