Today was about our first trip to a glacier. It did not disappoint.

We were met by our Icelandic Guide Alex, who was 100% viking in appearance. We boarded our custom setup 4WD vehicle with ludicrous lift kit and giant go anywhere tyres (see photo) along with about 10 other Americans, including a nice couple from Colorado who were visiting as the dude was giving lectures at an academic conference on equine reproductive technologies of all things. A 40 minute drive ensued, and we heard that the nearby cape was the place that one of the 2 brothers who landed humans on Iceland around 950AD. Apparently he made his way to a rocky mountain top on the coast so he could see if anyone was trying to sneak up on him. Accompanied by a number of Celtic slaves, it seems that they were more of an issue and they killed him by throwing him off the cliff. The Icelandic genetics are actually a combination of Norse and Celtic (slaves) that gave rise to the modern population of around 300000.

The volcano where the glacier tour was is called Katla...a Celtic name. It is surrounded by a huge field of small pebble like stones that are partly this size due to the explosive nature of eruption events when the lava hits the glacier, the steam/gas produced blows the lava into the air. In fact, prior to the last eruption about 107 years ago, the volcano was actually an island. It is currently very overdue as it typically erupts every 60 years or so. The drive took us onto this black plain and through slushy snow and ice. Alongside in sections was some moss...the start of the ecological succession in the area. There is a big fine if they drive over any of it because it takes around 50 years to reestablish! The scenery was lovely, through the mist it was easy to see why hollywood has used it a lot for flims. Indeed, the astronauts on the Apollo missions trained here too. Alex has been an extra in a number of films...easy to see why. Great hair, beard and quintessential viking look.

Iceland was in something of a recession until the eruption that disrupted Europe in 2010. Prior to that time, there were about 200000 tourists per year. After the eruption, it went to about 2 million 2 years later. Apparently the infrastructure couldn't keep up initially and a lot of people slept/camped beside cars. Winnebagos were next, and now a lot of farms have set up cabins as opposed to farming. Apparently, if you buy and eat lamb in Iceland, it isn't from here, it's from NZ. Cheaper to import than the cost of producing it here. Alex said taxes but I just reckon it's coz everything is just expensive.

On arrival at the glacier, we were given crampons and hard hats, an explanation of how to walk on glaciers (carefully, leaning into the slope both forwards for uphill and backwards for downhill, with wide walk to prevent catching crampons on your pants) and we were off. The glacier was very interesting. The ice is mixed with a lot of black ash from volcanic eruptions creating a real spectacle of ice mountains. It is several hundred to thousands of years old in places. The ice caves themselves are enigmatic. Typically they start as snow melt from the surface tunneling under the glacier forming a little tube. Once the water level drops and if any air/wind can get it, the rate of melting is much faster and a cave can form. They are all through the area but in general this glacier is currently in a receding phase. We stood and looked at an archway where they were holding tours last year (it's nearly melted). Inside the cave we visited there was a lot of water running through the bottom of it, and I was allowed to get down into the river and drink some meltwater...thousands of years since it left the water cycle, soon to be running through my veins and then kidneys!!!! We also managed to eat some compressed glacial ice that melted more like a boiled lollie than a typical icecube because it is so compressed. Nice! Some further walking and we got to a very picturesque spot where there was a waterfall surrounded by black coloured ice walls...truly unique spot. Back down off the glacier and into the 4WD for our return journey to Vik, along with a series of spotify music of Icelandic music, plus whiplash inducing bouncing through holes in the track as Alex was in a hurry to get back in time for his afternoon tour. They are very interested in rock/heavy metal/alternative music. Very interesting.

After we got there, we had a quick look through the Icewool shop along with several busloads from Reykjavik and we headed off to our next accommodation. Again, the scenery was striking and we took some epic pictures of mountains, waterfalls and just cool stuff along the way, Our accommodation has a grass roof and a terrific big window to look out at overnight, hoping to see an aurora. No such luck. Just before we got there we made a short stop at a volcanic rocky area that was covered in the lovely rounded green moss that looks like an illustration from a childrens book. It is grey in cold conditions, but the current luminous green colour comes from the recent warm weather and rainfall, so the chlorophyll is pumping. Tomorrow we go past a giant glacier en route to the fishing village of Hofn.