Another day, another breakfast at the hotel (variable quality) and onto the bus, today going from Albania to North Macedonia, quite happy to be clear of the chaos of Tirana drivers!

After a toilet break with regulation hounds, river scenery and cheap snacks at the servo, we made our official first stop at the monastery of St Naum and the nearby spring waters of Lake Dhrin (I think). The walk from the bus stop took us along the shores of Lake Ohrid, one of the oldest lakes in Europe at about 4 million years old and with a depth of about 300m, it holds a lot of water. Near the 9th century monastery, there are a series of 45 natural springs (30 above ground and 15 below water level) that produce Lake Dhrin that drains rapidly into Lake Ohrid. Apparently, after analysis, it has been found that the spring waters and the natural lake waters of Lake Ohrid do not actually mix, and the water from the spring fed lake effectively passes directly across the lake and into a river that then eventually drains into the Adriatic Sea. Interesting.

Also in the lake is a range of endemic species of purple algae and a small carp species that is used to create a unique type of pearl using its scales built up in layers on the surface of a ball of some sort to create the famous Lake Ohrid pearls. Bronnie bought a beautiful set of earrings, along with the required certificate of authenticity as there are only 2 official makers of them. No certificate = fake.

In the monastery itself was another beautiful orthodox church with its distinctive domed roofs and brick arrangement that is so iconic of the ones we've loved seeing. Inside was quite ancient looking and feeling with timber chairs/rests, beautiful paintings and just a nice feel. In the chapel is the tomb of St Naum from the 9th century. Legend says that one of his miracles is that if you put your ear up against the tomb, it can still be heard beating over 1000 years since his death. We met a group of school students on a 3 day excursion, some of whom were very excitedly saying they could hear it, but not all.

So, scepticism high and assuming that the saint's heartbeat was likely an effect from placing your ear on a flat surface, I gave it a try. Nothing. So I moved around/pressed harder, couldn't hear my heartbeat, then...boom. Quite unmistakeable, like the sound through a stethoscope. Thinking I was mistaken, I closed my eyes to listen some more. Nothing. Then, some seconds later, boom again. Same sound. So, I said to Bronnie I thought I heard something but didn't say what. Down she knelt, and sure enough, she heard the same thing...with the same pronounced pause between the beats. Weird as. Had some of that odd feeling again in the chapel that I'd had a couple of days before, and then to our delight as we went outside, it was snowing again. Crazy.

Anyway, we left there invigorated again (I may have had a sample of the waters of the lake that are said to have healing properties) and headed for the town of Ohrid itself, one of the iconic old towns in Macedonia. Our guide Nikolas showed us all around including ancient semi circular amphitheatre (not its correct name), some old churches (some orthodox, some muslim, some catholic) and walked us up the hill to the town fort from olden times. The crowning jewel was a short visit to St John's church, iconically perched overlooking Lake Ohrid with its pristine clear waters (23m)...one of the most photographed places in North Macedonia. Nikolas and his accompanying town dogs made for a great city tour, although a LOT of steps were covered today, including some hilly stuff just to test the resolve....Bronnie crushed it.

Simple dinner and off to bed. The relentless moving on the tour is exciting but is also tiring...a few naps occasionally on the bus, but we are enjoying being squished in together as the windy roads of the Balkans twist and turn away....ever hopeful that Boris concentrates properly in the corners (he's a bit quick and loves to drive on the opposite side of the road). More tomorrow.